‘Financially and emotionally, as an employer and as a human being, it just doesn’t work,’ said Rene Redzepi, creator and head chef at Noma in Copenhagen|Håkan Dahlström|CC BY 2.0

Noma, the Copenhagen restaurant that has repeatedly topped the world’s best restaurants lists, will close for regular service in 2024, its creator Rene Redzepi told The New York Times.

The way the modern fine-dining model that he co-created is “unsustainable,” said Redzepi, also the head chef of the restaurant.

“Financially and emotionally, as an employer and as a human being, it just doesn’t work,” he told the NYT.

Long 16-hour shifts, underpaid staff, unpaid interns and grueling workplace culture are common at fine dining restaurants.

The future
The new Noma Projects will see Redzepi pickle, ferment and cure foods like never heard of or seen before.