Wholesale brisket prices have risen 28% in the past year to $5.56 a pound
The iconic Texas barbecue industry is facing a crisis driven by soaring beef prices, forcing several joints to shut down.
Beloved establishments like Kirby’s BBQ, Brett’s BBQ Shop, and Sabar BBQ have already closed.
What’s driving the crisis?
A prolonged drought, labor shortages, and rising operating costs have reduced the US cattle herd to its smallest size in 75 years, sending wholesale beef prices sharply higher. Tariffs on imported beef have also added to the pressure.
Houston restaurant owner Russell Roegels, who has run his business since 2001, tracks wholesale brisket at $5.56 a pound—a 28% increase over the past year. To survive, he has raised customer prices by $2 to $35 a pound.
Other operators face even steeper costs. Food truck owner Marc Fadel saw prime-grade brisket jump from $3 to $5.99 a pound over two years, forcing him to charge $18 for a half-pound.
Even top-tier joints are vulnerable. Ernest Servantes, owner of the Michelin-rated Burnt Bean Co., recently raised brisket to $38 a pound to keep the staff count and restaurant running.
Meanwhile, the Department of Justice (DOJ) has launched an investigation into four meatpacking companies that control about 85% of the US beef market amid allegations of anti-competitive practices.